Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin embodies the perfect union of French elegance and American audacity. This collaboration between the Parisian jewelry house Mauboussin and the American company Trabert & Hoeffer has given birth to exceptional creations, marked by Art Deco style and an innovative approach to jewelry. Known for popularizing transformable jewelry, this jeweler attracted a prestigious clientele, including Hollywood celebrities and high society figures.
The origins of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin
After the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, the American market continued to adopt French jewelry trends. Although American jewelers were not directly involved in the event, they flocked there to discover the new modern creations and bring back to the United States what was to become the Art Deco style. It was against this backdrop that Randolph J. Trabert and William Howard Hoeffer decided to found Trabert & Hoeffer, Inc. in 1926. In the early days, the company imported French designs, drawing inspiration from the great houses such as Cartier and Mauboussin. This strategy proved effective, and quickly propelled the company into the limelight, until the stock market crash of 1929 marked a turning point for the company. The following year, Randolph Trabert died, leaving Hoeffer alone at the head of the business.
The Great Depression forced many companies to reinvent themselves, and the famous Parisian jewelry house Mauboussin, founded in 1827, tried to establish itself in the United States. Stores were opened in Palm Beach and New York, but the company’s strategy of importing large quantities of French jewelry ran up against the economic consequences of the crisis. Faced with major financial difficulties, Mauboussin was forced to liquidate part of its stock, and finally reached an agreement in 1936 with Trabert & Hoeffer. The American company took over its inventory and name, giving birth to Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin. This partnership gave Mauboussin new visibility, while consolidating Trabert & Hoeffer’s reputation.
An exceptional partnership
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin creations are strongly influenced by Art Deco, an artistic movement in vogue in the 1930s. This style is characterized by bold geometric shapes, clean lines and the use of precious metals combined with vibrantly colored gemstones. The company also innovated with modular jewelry, transforming necklaces into bracelets and brooches into pendants. This modern approach appeals to customers looking for elegant, functional pieces. On the strength of this success, Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin set up headquarters on Park Avenue and extended its activities to places where potential customers went to relax. Palm Beach, Los Angeles and Atlantic City were the first branches to open, followed by Miami Beach, Chicago and Beverly Hills.
One of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin’s greatest contributions to the world of haute joaillerie is its transformable jewelry. The idea was to offer versatile pieces, suitable for different occasions. Among the most famous creations were the lapel clips, which could be worn alone or combined to form a larger brooch. This innovative concept revolutionized luxury jewelry and remains a benchmark of ingenuity and refinement today.
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin: a prestigious clientele
Thanks to its unique style and innovative design, Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin quickly attracted the most prominent personalities of the day. Among its most famous customers were Hollywood film icons such as Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford. These stars embraced the house’s spectacular jewelry, often adorned with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds, sublimating their elegance on and off screen.
The Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin legacy
Although the collaboration between Trabert & Hoeffer and Mauboussin ended in the 1950s, its impact on the world of jewelry remains undeniable. Designs from this era continue to be sought after by collectors and jewelry enthusiasts alike. Their jewels bear witness to a time when innovation and elegance were combined to perfection, and when jewelry was not merely an accessory, but a true art in motion.
