A legendary figure of cinema and a style icon, Marlène Dietrich embodies timeless elegance and audacity. Revealed in the 1930s, she marked generations with her magnetic charisma and her taste for exceptional fashion and jewelry. Her sophisticated, meticulously-constructed image relied as much on her bewitching voice as on her appearance sculpted by sumptuous outfits and dazzling jewels. Beyond her talent as an actress and singer, Marlène Dietrich redefined the codes of Hollywood glamour and established herself as a true icon of the 20th century. Her influence extends far beyond the world of cinema, touching on fashion, politics and even contemporary popular culture.
Marlène Dietrich: a life of daring and elegance
Born in Berlin on December 27, 1901, Marie Magdalene Dietrich, better known as Marlène Dietrich, grew up in a bourgeois family where she developed an early interest in music and the stage. After studying violin and theater, she made her debut in silent films in the 1920s, but it was in 1930 that her career took a decisive turn with The Blue Angel, directed by Josef von Sternberg. This role as a cabaret singer won her international recognition and opened the doors to Hollywood.
Moving to the United States, Marlène Dietrich quickly became one of the most sought-after actresses of the golden age of cinema. With her sophisticated allure, husky voice and androgynous style, she enjoyed a string of successes in films such as Morocco (1930), Shanghai Express (1932) and Désir (1936). Her association with von Sternberg shaped her image: that of a mysterious femme fatale, draped in luxurious outfits and sublimated by iconic lighting effects.
A style icon and fashion pioneer
Marlène Dietrich not only shone on screen, she also imposed her own style, revolutionizing women’s fashion. She was one of the first actresses to popularize the wearing of women’s tuxedos, a daring move for the time that reinforced her image as an avant-garde icon. Her taste for masculine outfits, combined with ultra-feminine pieces, defied convention and had a lasting influence on fashion.
Her collaborations with couturiers such as Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy and Jean Louis have enabled her to create an allure that is instantly recognizable: sparkling dresses, fur coats and, of course, dazzling jewelry sets.
A strong political commitment
As the Second World War broke out, Marlène Dietrich made a courageous choice: she rejected the Nazi regime’s proposals and became actively involved with the Allies. She became an American citizen in 1939 and took part in the troops’ entertainment tours, singing for the soldiers at the front. This commitment earned her the Medal of Freedom, one of America’s highest honors, and reinforced her image as an independent, committed woman. After the war, she continued to champion progressive causes, supporting women’s rights and breaking taboos on androgyny and gender fluidity.
Marlène Dietrich: a career prolonged by music
Although her screen presence diminished from the 1950s onwards, Marlène Dietrich reinvented herself as a cabaret singer. She embarked on an international musical career, performing to sold-out audiences in Paris, London and Las Vegas. Her repertoire, a blend of French songs and American classics, seduced audiences won over by her undiminished charisma and legendary elegance.
Her last public appearance was in 1975, after which she retired from the stage for good. Marlène Dietrich died in Paris on May 6, 1992, leaving behind an unrivalled cultural and aesthetic legacy.
Marlène Dietrich and jewelry: the epitome of luxury and elegance
If Marlene Dietrich left her mark on the history of cinema and fashion, her love of jewelry was not simply a question of adornment, but an essential element of her identity. On screen as in life, she never wore jewelry by chance: each piece was carefully chosen to sublimate her allure and reinforce her aura of femme fatale. Unlike other actresses of her era, who had jewelry lent to them by jewelry houses, Marlène Dietrich had an impressive personal collection of one-of-a-kind, often made-to-measure pieces. Her preference was for bold, spectacular creations, in keeping with her assertive style.
1. Lily bracelet by Verdura
An icon of glamour and style, Marlene Dietrich was known for her refined taste in jewelry, preferring bold, sculptural pieces that enhanced her sophisticated allure. Verdura’s Lily bracelet, with its elegant curves and floral design, fits perfectly into this world of timeless elegance.
2. Jarretière bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels
A true masterpiece of jewelry, Marlène Dietrich’s cuff bracelet, designed in 1937 by Van Cleef & Arpels craftsmen, is one of the most emblematic pieces in her collection. Adorned with sumptuous oval rubies, sublimated by a pavement of round, square and baguette-cut diamonds, it is set in dazzling platinum, testifying to the house’s exceptional savoir-faire. In the many photographs of the actress wearing her jewel, her majestic allure is clearly visible: the “Jarretière” cuff rests proudly above the wrist, its spectacular loops of dazzling rubies intertwining with precision-cut diamonds. Each stone, meticulously set, blends perfectly into the flowing design of the bracelet. The finely worked back reveals a delicate pavement of round diamonds, forming a subtle floral motif that further accentuates its refinement.
This was one of Marlene Dietrich’s most cherished pieces of jewelry. Unlike other pieces she sold at a Christie’s auction, this cuff was the only one she kept for the rest of her life. Like the actress herself, this daring bracelet, designed in the late 1930s, pushed back the boundaries of convention, symbolizing both her timeless elegance and her avant-garde spirit.
3. Bracelet by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin
One of her favorite pieces of jewelry is this impressive bracelet by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin in platinum set with diamonds, emerald beads and a 128-carat cabochon emerald that could be adapted to a ring.
4. Bracelet by Paul Flato
Another jewel dear to Dietrich’s heart is this magnificent platinum bracelet set with diamonds and an emerald, designed by the famous jeweler to the stars, Paul Flato.
5. Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin emerald and diamonds brooch
Also designed by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, this important platinum brooch is set with diamonds and a 97-carat emerald that often appeared on Marlène Dietrich’s outfits.
