Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, remains a key figure in 20th-century history. Known for her influence on King Edward VIII, whose abdication turned the British monarchy upside down, she also made her mark with her sophisticated style and priceless jewelry collection. Each piece in her collection tells a story of love, power and elegance, making her one of the most glamorous women of her time.
Wallis Simpson: An extraordinary rise
Wallis Simpson was born Bessie Wallis Warfield on June 19, 1896, in Blue Ridge Summit, Pennsylvania, but grew up in Baltimore, in modest circumstances. Her first marriage to naval officer Earl Winfield Spencer Jr. ended in 1927. After a second marriage to Ernest Simpson, a British businessman, she moved to London, where she quickly became part of British high society.
It was during the 1930s that she met the Prince of Wales, the future Edward VIII, who would change her destiny. Their relationship caused a scandal, as Wallis was still married and divorced for the first time, a situation unacceptable to the British crown. In 1936, Edward VIII ascended the throne, but faced with pressure from the government and public opinion, he abdicated in December of the same year so that he could marry Wallis. Their marriage took place in 1937 in France, where they went into exile and took the title of Duke and Duchess of Windsor.
Wallis Simpson: An icon of style and refinement
While Wallis Simpson has been at the heart of an unprecedented political crisis, she has also become a fashion and luxury icon. Her avant-garde sense of style and taste for spectacular jewelry made her a muse for many designers and jewelers. Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston were among her favorite jewelers, and many of her pieces were designed especially for her.
Her minimalist yet audacious style influenced the jewelry trends of her time, and her collection is still considered one of the most impressive of the 20th century. In 1987, ten years after her death, the auction of her jewels reached record levels, testifying to the indelible imprint she left on the history of luxury and jewelry.
Wallis Simpson and jewelry: a bold and inimitable style
Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, was known not only for winning the heart of King Edward VIII, but also for her exquisite taste in jewelry. Elevating elegance to its paroxysm, she built up an exceptional jewelry collection over the years, reflecting both her refinement and her bold personality.
Her style revolutionized the way high society women wore jewelry: bold layering, modern shapes and hidden messages were all part of her jewelry language. To this day, her collection remains one of the most legendary in history, forever marking the world of luxury and royalty.
1. Wallis Simpson's Flamingo brooch by Cartier
Among Wallis Simpson’s most famous jewels, the Flamant Rose brooch occupies a special place. Created in 1940 by Cartier, this spectacular piece was commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife, reinforcing their shared passion for refined, original jewelry. Crafted in yellow gold and set with dazzling gemstones, this brooch depicts a flamingo in full movement, its body adorned with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds, while its beak is distinguished by a subtle onyx detail. Its bold design, both modern and refined, perfectly illustrates the avant-garde style of the Duchess, who appreciated jewels with playful, colorful shapes. Worn on several occasions by Wallis Simpson, this brooch became a symbol of her legendary elegance. After her death, it was sold at the legendary auction of her collection in 1987, organized by Sotheby’s in Geneva, where it fetched a record price.
2. Wallis Simpson's Panther bracelet by Cartier
Among the treasures in Wallis Simpson’s collection, this gold and diamond bracelet by Cartier perfectly illustrates the refinement and avant-garde taste of the Duchess of Windsor. Designed in 18-carat yellow gold, this remarkable jewel is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, arranged with exemplary precision, enhancing the brilliance of the precious metal. Wallis Simpson, an icon of twentieth-century elegance, was particularly fond of personalized, symbolic jewelry. This bracelet follows in her footsteps, representing the passionate love between her and the Duke of Windsor. Their extraordinary relationship, marked by Edward VIII’s renunciation of the British throne, was always reflected in the sumptuous gifts he gave her, often commissioned from the finest jewellers.
3. Chalcedonies” set by Suzanne Belperron
Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, was renowned for her daring taste in jewelry, favoring avant-garde, bespoke creations. Among the most emblematic pieces in her collection is a sumptuous set of blue chalcedony, sapphires and diamonds by Suzanne Belperron, one of the most innovative jewelers of the 20th century. Created in Paris around 1935, this Art Moderne set includes two double-fluted bracelets adorned with blue chalcedony balls, old-cut diamonds and sapphires, as well as a necklace with a double strand of chalcedony pearls. The flower-shaped articulated clasp is set with a sapphire cabochon surrounded by old-cut diamonds, all mounted in platinum.
4. Cartier Cuff Bracelet
Among the most fascinating pieces in the collection of Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, is a sumptuous rigid ruby and diamond bracelet by Cartier. This exceptional jewel testifies to the Duchess’s exquisite taste for bold, colorful creations, as well as to her special relationship with Cartier, which produced several of her most emblematic pieces. This bangle bracelet is set with rubies and diamonds, forming an elegant, harmonious motif. The combination of the deep red of the rubies and the sparkle of the diamonds perfectly illustrates Wallis Simpson’s glamorous, sophisticated style.
5. Necklace Van Cleef & Arpels
To celebrate Wallis’ 40th birthday in June 1936, Edward VIII visited Van Cleef & Arpels. He brought with him precious stones donated during his trip to India in 1921-1922, when he was still Prince of Wales. True to his attention to detail and high aesthetic standards, the King meticulously supervised the creation process, scrutinizing several sketches before settling on this spectacular necklace.
6. Bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels
This ruby and diamond bracelet was presented by Edward VIII to Wallis Simpson in March 1936. Set with forty rubies and diamonds, this remarkable piece reflected not only the King’s passion for jewelry, but also his unconditional love for Wallis. An even more intimate detail makes this jewel unique: an engraved inscription in Edward’s own handwriting, testifying to his deep attachment.
7. Clips by Van Cleef & Arpels
At the end of 1936, as England and the world watched the upheaval caused by Edward VIII’s imminent abdication, one thing remained unchanged: his love for Wallis Simpson. While negotiating his resignation from the throne, the King placed a special order with Van Cleef & Arpels for Wallis’ Christmas present. This last jewel, imbued with the same sentimental intensity as the previous ones, symbolized his total commitment to the woman for whom he was sacrificing his crown.
8. Bracelet “Jarretière” by Van Cleef & Arpels
Another Van Cleef & Arpels creation for the Duchess of Windsor, this impressive “garter” bracelet set with diamonds and sapphires.
9. Necklace by Cartier
Cartier created this impressive sculptural necklace set with turquoise, diamonds and amethysts for the Duchess of Windsor in 1947.
10. Panther” brooch by Cartier
Among the highlights of the Duchess of Windsor’s collection is this sumptuous “Panthère” brooch made by Cartier in 1949, set with sapphires and diamonds. The animal sits atop a 152-carat cashmere sapphire.
11. Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Hawaii collection was first presented in 1938 and featured small flowers with varying numbers of petals, combining rubies, sapphires and diamonds. This clip version worn by the Duchess of Windsor shows a bouquet of stylized flowers attached to polished yellow gold stems.
