To tell the story of Maison Fred is first and foremost to tell the story of a man driven by an unparalleled joie de vivre, who took pleasure in transposing his emotions into jewelry, giving life to luminous creations that were out of the ordinary and ahead of their time. Amazed by the world around him, Fred Samuel celebrated the light and beauty offered by nature, such as pearls, of which he became a true expert. A look back at a life full of twists and turns, and a marvellous success story marked by the work and audacity of the modern jeweller-creator.
Fred's beginnings: a passion for pearls and precious stones
Fred Samuel was born on August 3, 1908 in sunny Buenos Aires, Argentina, to Alsatian parents who had fled anti-Semitic persecution. His father, Albert Samuel, was a jeweler, and this was to inspire a vocation in his son. Young Fred went to the best college in Buenos Aires, where he discovered rowing, which led to a passion for the navy that was to feature in many of his future creations. Following the German defeat in 1918, the Samuel family returned to France and settled in Paris, where little Fred continued his studies until graduation. In 1925, he decided to follow in his father’s footsteps and began his jewelry apprenticeship with the famous René Worms, where he learned to recognize precious stones and pearls.
The rise of Maison Fred: a luminous signature
Fred Samuel was inspired by the worldly Paris around him, learning its codes and quickly making a place for himself among the gem dealers, who saw in him a passionate and determined young man. In 1936, at the age of 28, he seized an opportunity and bought a boutique at 6 rue Royale, against the advice of his colleagues but with the blessing of his former boss, who urged him to take off. Fred’s first creations were of impeccable quality, and he launched the famous “charms”, small pendants inspired by Parisian monuments that could be added to a bracelet as desired. These were a big hit with foreign tourists, and celebrities began to flock to this new boutique that everyone was talking about, such as the wealthy Barbara Hutton, who took an interest in the creations adorned with cultured pearls.
The importance of pearls is paramount, and Fred understands this as soon as he begins his apprenticeship with the Worms. In fact, the pearl market was in a state of flux and had to make way for the cultured pearls introduced by Mikimoto in Japan. Similar to fine pearls, they are much more accessible in terms of price, and Fred, recognized as an expert in the field, makes them one of his specialties.
Fred Samuel and war: commitment, persecution and survival
In 1939, the Second World War broke out, and Fred Samuel wanted to enlist to defend France. However, his Argentine nationality prevented him from joining the regular army. He opted for the Légion Étrangère and was captured by the German army before managing to escape and return to Paris. The jewelry market wasn’t exactly conducive to business, but Fred and the global climate became charged. In 1941, he was ordered to remove the name Samuel from his store and affix a yellow star to the front. These obligations were soon no longer sufficient, and the jeweler decided to save his store by selling it (fictitiously) to a friend, and moved with his family to the Free Zone until 1942, when he was arrested and taken to the Vernet camp. His wife Thérèse managed to use her connections in Paris to secure his release.
Tired of having to hide, he decided to join the Resistance and took part in clandestine operations until the Allied landings. In 1944, he finally returned to Paris and his boutique at 6 rue Royale, but had to face up to the profound changes in the market following these long years of crisis. However, the horizon finally seemed to brighten and sales began to pick up …
Expansion, icons and worldwide recognition
In 1962, Fred opened a second boutique at Orly airport, a risky gamble that paid off. A few years later, the Force 10 bracelet inspired by his passion for sailing was born, followed by boutiques in Monte Carlo and Beverly Hills. In 1977, the Maison Fred met the Soleil d’Or, a yellow diamond weighing almost 105 carats, which was presented at 6 rue Royale and at Maxim’s (restaurant) in the presence of many celebrities who came to discover this incredible piece radiating light. Following the success of the sailor-knot bracelet, Fred launched the Force 10 collection in 1978, diversifying the range. The company continued to expand, opening boutiques all over the world, particularly in Asia. In 1995, Fred joins the LVMH group, becoming the first jewelry house to do so. Thanks to its ever-growing number of boutiques, Fred is also one of the world’s top 10 jewelry brands.
An exceptional house on Place Vendôme
In 1999, the Maison Fred moved to Place Vendôme, reinforcing its presence as a major jewelry house. Fred Samuel died in 2006 at the age of 98. His colorful life was marked by creation and upheaval, forcing him to constantly innovate to satisfy his customers, who were always on the lookout for something new. From the radiant sunshine of Buenos Aires to the radiance of the Soleil d’Or, Fred Samuel left his mark on the world of jewelry, and the company continues to commemorate the modern creative jeweler through its creations.
