The history of Maison Bolin dates back to the end of the 18th century. Official jeweler to the great courts of Europe, notably Russia, Bolin made a name for itself through its refinement and exceptional craftsmanship. Its creations, symbols of elegance and technical mastery, have left their mark on the history of haute joaillerie. A look back at the history of this prestigious house, whose masterpieces continue to amaze collectors and art lovers alike.
The origins of the House of Bolin
The House of Bolin has its origins in the Römpler workshop, founded by Andreas Römpler, nicknamed the “Master of Diamonds”, who worked in St. Petersburg. On Römpler’s death in 1829, his son-in-law Gottlieb Ernst Jahn took over the management of the company, renaming it Römpler & Jahn. In 1833, Carl Edvard Bolin, a Swedish jeweler originally from Stockholm, moved to St. Petersburg and began working alongside Jahn. The following year, he married Ernestine, the daughter of the deceased Römpler, and took over the company after his brother-in-law’s death. He then renamed the company under his own name, “Bolin”, and went into partnership with his brother Henrik Conrad.
In 1839, Carl Edvard Bolin was awarded the prestigious title of Imperial Court Jeweler, which he retained until his death in 1864. Thanks to its growing success, Bolin opened a boutique in Moscow in 1852, run by Henrik Conrad in partnership with Englishman James Stuart Shanks. However, after Henrik Conrad’s death, Shanks left the company to found his own jewelry house.
Bolin and the Russian imperial court
In the 19th century, Bolin established itself as a key player in imperial jewelry. Its creations, combining elegance and innovation, seduced the Romanov family. The workshop created sumptuous tiaras, necklaces and brooches, worn at major court events. Bolin competes with Fabergé, another renowned jeweler, by producing unique and luxurious pieces.
Some emblematic creations
Throughout its history, Bolin has been renowned for the creation of exceptional pieces, commissioned by the greatest European courts, notably the Romanovs, who owned some exceptional tiaras, which I describe in this article.
The “Vladimir” tiara
In 1843, Bolin received a prestigious commission to create an exceptional tiara. Recent research has revealed that this piece was presented to Grand Duke Alexander Nikolayevich, the future Emperor Alexander II. In September of the same year, Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna gave birth to a son, Nicholas. In 1880, this sumptuous tiara was passed on to Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovitch, Alexander II’s third son.
His wife, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, wore it frequently, contributing to its renown as the “Vladimir Tiara”. This jewel, a masterpiece of Bolin’s jewelry-making expertise, became one of the most emblematic tiaras in the history of Russian imperial jewels.
Pearl and diamond tiara
This impressive tiara was adorned with 113 pearls and dozens of diamonds of various sizes. It was made around 1830 by jeweler Gottlieb Ernst Jahn, who had just taken over from Andreas Roempler for Alexandra Feodorovna. No trace remains of this major piece following its sale in 1922. It was most likely dismantled.
Diamonds and emeralds tiara by Bolin
This sumptuous tiara, created around 1900 by the prestigious Bolin house, is a true masterpiece. Set with diamonds and Colombian emeralds, this piece embodies the refinement of imperial jewelry of the period. Its design features bow motifs, highly prized in the early 20th century, adding a touch of timeless elegance. In 1925, it was one of the jewels inventoried and photographed by the Soviet authorities. Unfortunately, the current location of this tiara remains unknown.
The “Beauty of Russia” tiara
One of the most famous tiaras to have belonged to the Romanovs is an 1841 creation by jeweller Carl Bolin for Alexandra Feodorovna (1798-1860), wife of Emperor Nicholas I of Russia. The tiara, a true work of art, was composed of 928 diamonds and 25 drop pearls. After the Russian Revolution, the jewel was sold by the Bolsheviks and began a long journey through the hands of various owners. In 1927, it was auctioned at Christie’s and acquired by Holmes and Co. A few years later, in 1930, the 9th Duke of Marlborough, Charles Spencer-Churchill, bought it for £3,500 and presented it to his wife Gladys Spencer-Churchill, née Deacon.
The tiara reappeared in 1978, when an anonymous London jeweller bought it at a new auction. In the 1980s, it passed into the hands of Imelda Marcos, wife of former Philippine President Ferdinand Marcos. In 1986, after the fall of the Marcos regime, the tiara was confiscated by the Central Bank of the Philippines. Today, the original cannot be found, but a replica was made in 1987 by Soviet jewellers for the Russian Diamond Fund.
Bolin's rise in Europe and move to Sweden
In 1913, Bolin opened a branch in Germany, in Bad Homburg vor der Höhe, a health resort popular with the European aristocracy, especially the Russians. The new establishment soon enjoyed promising success. However, the outbreak of the First World War in July 1914 changed all that. Wilhelm Bolin, aware of what was at stake, managed to transfer his stock from Germany to Stockholm, thus preserving a valuable part of his collections. Unable to return to Russia, Wilhelm Bolin opened a workshop in Stockholm, where he began production of silver objects and jewelry. Despite the war and the Russian Revolution, he kept in touch with his craftsmen in Moscow, ensuring the continuity of Bolin’s expertise through the turbulence of the times. Thanks to his talent and the company’s reputation, he was awarded the prestigious title of Court Jeweler by Sweden’s King Gustav V. Today, Bolin continues to exist in Stockholm and still serves the Swedish monarchy, working for the current King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden.
