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Cover of the 4th issue of Collectissim Magazine
N°4
Cover of Collectissim Magazine, a jewelry magazine dedicated to the history of jewelry, rare jewels and savoir-faire. A valuable resource for collectors and enthusiasts of rare and antique jewelry.
N°5

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Millicent Rogers with the ruby and diamond “Starfish” brooch, designed by René Boivin, an iconic piece of jewelry in her bold, sophisticated style.
Millicent Rogers: The art of wearing jewelry
The Boyacá region, home to Colombia's Chivor emerald mines
Emerald: In the heart of Colombia’s mines

Videos

In this exclusive video, I interview Ricardo Jiménez, master lapidary, about his work with Colombian emeralds.
Cutting the most precious Colombian emeralds
In this video, I visit the Original Miami Beach Antique Show, one of the must-see shows for jewelry lovers!
Je visite l'Original Miami Beach Antique Show !

Art Deco Jewelry: The Ultimate Collector’s Guide

Art Deco jewelry embodies the elegance and innovation of the 1920s and 1930s. This style, recognizable by its geometric lines and contrasting colors, continues to fascinate vintage jewelry lovers. This detailed guide will help you understand the characteristics of Art Deco jewelry and make the right choices for your collection.

Origin and historical context of Art Deco

Art Deco emerged after the First World War, reflecting a desire for modernity and a break with previous styles. Introduced at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, this artistic movement is characterized by geometric forms, clean lines and a modern aesthetic. It manifested itself in a variety of fields, including architecture, fashion and, of course, jewelry.

Photograph of the 1925 Exposition Universelle des Arts Décoratifs, a major venue for the dissemination of Art Deco jewelry.
The 1925 Exposition Universelle des Arts Décoratifs

Characteristics of Art Deco jewelry

Art Deco jewelry is characterized by bold geometric patterns, such as circles, triangles and straight lines. The use of bright, contrasting colors, such as black and white, was common, often achieved by combining materials such as onyx and diamond. Designers of the period incorporated exotic and innovative materials, such as jade, coral, enamel and rock crystal, reflecting an openness to global cultural influences.

Un bracelet Cartier "Tutti-Frutti" Art Déco qui est un parfait exemple de bijoux Art Déco
An exceptional Art Deco enamel, gem-set and diamond 'Tutti Frutti' bracelet by Cartier c.1930 ©Bonhams

Materials and stones used

Craftsmen of the time favored platinum for its strength and ability to support delicate designs. Precious stones such as diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies were commonly used. Bold combinations of colors and materials reflected a modern, luxurious aesthetic.

Un bracelet Cartier Art Déco qui est un parfait exemple de bijoux Art Déco
An Art Deco emerald and diamond bracelet by Cartier c.1935 ©Bonahms

The influence of exotic cultures

Openness to the world and archaeological discoveries influenced Art Deco jewelry design. Egyptian, Asian and African motifs inspired designers, incorporating elements such as hieroglyphs, dragons and tribal motifs. This cultural fusion enriched the stylistic vocabulary of the period.

Un bracelet Art Déco par Janesich
Un bracelet Art Déco par Janesich ©Christie's

Leading jewelry houses and iconic designers

Renowned French houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Janesich, Ostertag, René Boivin, Paul Brandt, Raymond Templier and Fouquet played a major role in popularizing the Art Deco style. Their innovative creations and technical mastery helped define the aesthetics of the period.

How to collect Art Deco jewelry?

Collecting Art Deco jewelry requires special attention to authenticity and quality. It is essential to check the signatures of the houses, the state of conservation and the provenance of the pieces. Collaborating with experts or recognized auction houses can help avoid counterfeits and guarantee the authenticity of jewelry. Here’s a guide to help you find authentic Art Deco pieces. Collectissim also offers a consulting service to help you in your search.

The current market for Art Deco jewelry

The Art Deco jewelry market is dynamic, with growing demand for these historic pieces. Auctions and specialized boutiques offer a variety of jewelry, from rings to necklaces to bracelets. Prices vary according to rarity, quality and provenance.

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Collectissim Magazine N°5

Discover the history of jewelry in New York in this exceptional special issue.

Discover

Collectissim Magazine N°5

An exceptional special issue dedicated to the history of jewelry in New York.