Millicent Rogers, a timeless icon of elegance and a key figure of the 20th century, left her mark on the world of fashion and jewelry with her inimitable style and avant-garde personality. Her fascinating life, marked by her audacity and her taste for jewelry, made her a true icon. A master in the art of matching jewelry to her outfits, she used each piece as an extension of her personality.
Millicent Rogers: An extraordinary life at the heart of high society
Millicent Rogers, born in 1902 in New York, was the great-granddaughter of Henry Huttleston Rogers, co-founder of Standard Oil. As a child, she grew up in a privileged environment, surrounded by wealth and opportunity, but her frail health due to rheumatic fever and a very weak heart marked her childhood. These challenges helped shape her determined character and creative imagination.
Under the careful supervision of her parents, Millicent received a careful home education that quickly revealed her exceptional gifts. She learned to read and write at an early age, far surpassing expectations for her age, and developed a remarkable talent for languages. This aptitude was shared by her younger brother Harry, two years her junior, with whom she enjoyed a special bond. Together, they adopted Latin as their secret language, an ingenious code that enabled them to converse freely without their parents understanding what they were saying.
At the age of 17, Millicent was immersed in the effervescence of the post-war era, where she became a much sought-after figure at the dances and society dinners that preceded her official introduction to high society. From her very first public appearances, her charm and daring style immediately caught the attention of the media, heralding a media exposure that would only grow. At a fancy ball hosted by her parents in Black Point, Millicent stands out in a sparkling gown with a large train and headpiece. Her appearance attracts a photographer from Harper’s Bazaar, who shoots her for the magazine, propelling her into the limelight. Fashion articles about her appear in the Washington Post and other newspapers, with a full-page photo in Town & Country.
Millicent perfectly represented the new freedoms and emerging trends of her time, attracting attention wherever she went. When she crossed paths with young Edward, Prince of Wales, during his American tour in 1919. The Prince, fascinated by her mesmerizing beauty, caused a veritable media frenzy. However, their romance comes to an end when the Prince returns to England, before relinquishing the crown for the love of another American woman, a story that makes headlines around the world.
The Rogers family traveled extensively throughout Europe. Enthusiastic and cultured, they immersed themselves in the history and cultures of the places they visited. In Italy, at the age of 18, she met the Duke of Aosta, heir to the Italian throne, who asked her to marry him. However, this romance was disapproved by Millicent’s father and Mussolini, putting an end to their relationship.
Perhaps it was these impossible loves that prompted young Millicent to run away in January 1924 with Count Ludwig von Salm-Hoogstraeten, an Austrian aristocrat. The latter, known for his dancing and tennis skills, was seen as a bad match for Millicent by her parents. The Count, whose fortune had been badly affected by the First World War, was apparently planning to marry a wealthy woman. Millicent’s father managed to intervene, however, by cutting her off. The marriage was annulled a few months later when it hit the headlines. In the meantime, the couple had a child, Peter Salm.
After her return to the U.S., Millicent became involved in philanthropic activities, while continuing to organize parties in Southampton to ease her adjustment. She supports local institutions such as the Southampton Hospital, where she takes part in fund-raising events. Millicent soon sparked rumors about her love life, notably with Argentinean Arturo Peralta-Ramos. Their love affair culminated in an intimate wedding in 1931, followed by a move to Argentina, where Millicent experienced personal fulfillment. Their marriage lasted eight years and produced two children, but ended in divorce.
Millicent remarried in 1936 to Ronald Balcom, a stockbroker. The couple moved to Austria, where she became known for her unique style of dress. In 1939, the family returned to the United States, and Millicent devoted herself to charity work during the war. She bought the Claremont mansion in Virginia, where she supported the rehabilitation of navy pilots.
After the war, she moved to Hollywood and had an affair with Clark Gable. Then, in 1947, she discovered Taos, New Mexico, where she found her greatest creative fulfillment. She was inspired by Native American art to design sculptural jewelry, and became a passionate collector of Pueblo artifacts. Millicent died in 1953 at the age of 50, leaving behind a strong influence in the world of art and fashion, as well as a museum dedicated to her life and collection in Taos.
A passion for fashion and jewelry
Over the years, Millicent Rogers not only collected iconic pieces, she also knew how to wear and combine them with unrivalled style. Her jewelry, often bold and innovative, reflected her ability to transcend convention while remaining profoundly elegant.
Later, her move to New Mexico marked a transformation in her style. There she discovered Native American jewelry, blending turquoise and diamonds in a bohemian-chic spirit that quickly became her signature. Through her activism, she campaigned for the preservation of Native American culture, a commitment that extended far beyond her love of their jewelry.
Millicent Rogers saw jewelry as an extension of her identity. Her collection included creations signed by leading names such as René Boivin, Paul Flato and Suzanne Belperron. She was also renowned for her unrivalled flair, choosing pieces that blended originality with artisanal excellence.
A woman of contradictions, she combined Native American pieces in turquoise and silver with jewels adorned with diamonds and rubies, embodying an eclectic and innovative aesthetic.
Three iconic Millicent Rogers jewels
Millicent Rogers embodied a bold style and unique artistic sensibility, expressed through her jewelry collection. Among her most iconic pieces are three exceptional brooches. These creations reflect her love of avant-garde design, her passion for meaningful symbols and her desire to assert a personal aesthetic outside convention.
1. Verbum Carro” brooch by Fulco di Verdura for Paul Flato
Created in the 1930s, this brooch is one of the most remarkable pieces in the Millicent Rogers collection. Designed by Fulco di Verdura for the renowned jeweler Paul Flato, it is set with rubies, sapphires and yellow diamonds and bears the Latin inscription Verbum Carro (“a word to the wise is enough”). This jewel reflects Millicent Rogers’ refined taste for pieces combining symbolism and modernity – she often wore it at social events, marking her bold style.
However, the significance of this inscription could also have a more personal resonance for Millicent, often faced with health-related trials, including chronic heart problems. The brooch, with its understated but powerful message, may have been a nod to these challenges for her, a subtle way of displaying her resilience and spirit.
2. René Boivin's “starfish” brooch
Among Millicent Rogers’ most iconic jewels is René Boivin’s famous “starfish” brooch. Made in 1936, this ruby and diamond creation was designed by Juliette Moutard, inspired by the organic, sculptural forms of nature.
Millicent Rogers acquired one of the first versions of this brooch, which became a symbol of the jewelry avant-garde. The three-dimensional use of stones and the bold design revolutionized the aesthetic conventions of the time.
Today, the first version of this brooch is on display at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, testifying to its historical and artistic significance. For Millicent, this piece represented not only her taste for the unique, but also her desire to display a style that transcended fashion trends.
3. René Boivin's ruby and diamond floral brooch
Signed René Boivin, this three-dimensional brooch is a celebration of nature, a recurring theme in the house’s work. Created in the 1930s, it features dazzling rubies that make up the petals and diamonds that accentuate the brilliance of the piece.
This jewel is a perfect example of the audacity and femininity of Boivin, who collaborated with such genius designers as Juliette Moutard and Suzanne Belperron. The brooch reflects the timeless elegance that seduced Millicent Rogers.
With her keen eye for art and love of exceptional jewelry, Millicent Rogers chose this brooch as a symbol of her passion for bold design. Indeed, this jewel was not just an ornament, but a true reflection of her personality and visionary spirit.
