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Cover of the 4th issue of Collectissim Magazine
N°4
Cover of Collectissim Magazine, a jewelry magazine dedicated to the history of jewelry, rare jewels and savoir-faire. A valuable resource for collectors and enthusiasts of rare and antique jewelry.
N°5

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Millicent Rogers with the ruby and diamond “Starfish” brooch, designed by René Boivin, an iconic piece of jewelry in her bold, sophisticated style.
Millicent Rogers: The art of wearing jewelry
The Boyacá region, home to Colombia's Chivor emerald mines
Emerald: In the heart of Colombia’s mines

Videos

In this exclusive video, I interview Ricardo Jiménez, master lapidary, about his work with Colombian emeralds.
Cutting the most precious Colombian emeralds
In this video, I visit the Original Miami Beach Antique Show, one of the must-see shows for jewelry lovers!
Je visite l'Original Miami Beach Antique Show !

Vienna 1900 : Imperial jewels at Sotheby’s

A collection of almost 250 jewels gathered over time in Vienna during the heyday of the Austro-Hungarian Empire is about to be auctioned on November 6 at Sotheby’s in Geneva. This impressive collection, locked away in a bank vault for almost half a century, brings together unique pieces that bear witness to the wealth and power of 20th-century imperial Vienna. It offers us a precious journey through time into the intimacy of the ruling houses linked to the Habsburg dynasty.

Vienne 1900, diadème rubis Sotheby's
Impressive ruby and diamond tiara, circa 1896 by Köchert ©Sotheby's

This incredible collection bears witness to the grandeur of Viennese court life in the 19th century. Some pieces are linked to the intimate history of the great Austro-Hungarian families, such as this magnificent tiara (est.180-350,000) set with diamonds and rubies of Burmese origin, signed Köchert and belonging to Duchess Isabelle of Württemberg, Princess of Saxony (1871-1904).

Vienne 1900, devant de corsage Sotheby's
Exceptional natural pearl and diamond devant-de-corsage, circa 1865

As is this impressive bodice front (est.270-450,000) designed as a floral crown set with diamonds and adorned with natural pearls, signed Emil Biedermann around 1865 (Emil Biedermann was a renowned Viennese jeweller and Köchert’s main competitor in the mid-19th century). Given by Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) as a wedding present to Archduchess Maria Theresa of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845-1927).

Vienne 1900, collier Sotheby's
Superb ruby and diamond necklace/tiara by Köchert ©Sotheby's

This tiara necklace set with unheated Burmese rubies and diamonds (est. 110-160,000) is also a wedding present that Emperor Franz Joseph bought from Köchert for his niece Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria when she married Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg in 1893. The necklace was intended to form a suite with the ruby and diamond brooch (lot 1071).

Vienne 1900, broche Sotheby's
Superb ruby and diamond brooch by Köchert ©Sotheby's
Vienne 1900, diadème Sotheby's
Important natural pearl and diamond tiara by Köchert ©Sothebys

This transformable tiara, adorned with diamonds and natural pearls (est.270-450,000), once belonged to Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Deux-Siciles, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844-1899), is a masterpiece of this collection, thanks to its delicacy and beauty.

This sale, organised by Sotheby’s, highlights jewellery production in 19th-century Vienna. Von Mack, Biedermeier, Köchert: the end of the Habsburg monarchy deprived these jewellers of their raison d’être. Without court life, the magnificent jewellery had become obsolete. With the exception of Köchert, almost none of Vienna’s leading fin-de-siècle jewellers survive today.

This unique imperial and royal collection, which has remained virtually undivided and unchanged since the early 20th century, offers a unique opportunity to study Viennese jewellery from the Belle Époque and rediscover the talent of these forgotten masters.

Recommended Articles

A jeweled box designed by jeweler Bolin
A Fabergé egg, which was the specialty of the Fabergé house and given to the Tsar for Easter.
Photograph of Wallis Simpson and Edward VIII, Duke and Duchess of Windsor

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Collectissim Magazine N°5

Discover the history of jewelry in New York in this exceptional special issue.

Discover

Collectissim Magazine N°5

An exceptional special issue dedicated to the history of jewelry in New York.